RGB mux board

# Overview

The objective of this board is to simplify the RGB mux mod performed on the CRT. It has few benefits.

1. No need to spend time connecting all the grounds together
2. Easier to solder the RGB in-line resistors, diodes and 75ohm resistors (this can get quiet messy)
3. Ability to disconnect the back of the CRT TV when needed (10 pin IDC connector)
4. Adds stability to the mod. No need for hot glue etc. to hold things in place
5. Tested with various CRTs (Note: not all CRTs are RGB moddable. Tested CRTs are listed on this site)

# Buy this board kit

Please checkout the store for other parts

# Schematics

# RGB mux board

This is a two layer board. The best way to explain this board is through pictures. Below is an image of the latest board revision.

This board is now availabe for you to order directlyopen in new window as well. You can download the gerber fileopen in new window and manufacture your own boards. However, please send me your pictures so that I can keep the tutorials up-to-date for others.

# 3D view back

# 3D view front

# Design summary

# Board top & bottom

This shows the final manufactured board as if you held it in your hand. Design shows gold copper, purple mask, white silk, black drills, and the board outline. Internal cutouts are indicated by a black outline but are not filled in.

Below are the resistors and descriptions for them

R9 and R10 forms a voltage divider. This is optional and only to be used in cases where < 5V is needed.

Typical setup would look like the below

# Example: 5V blanking signal with just diode

• R9 is shorted
• R10 is left open
• R11 has the diode (pay attention to the direction)
• R12 left open (in this case the CRT csync was already 75ohm terminated)

# How to use the voltage divider on the board

Plan: At point A you will have 5V from console. At point B you want 3.7V, so that at point C you can have 3V after the diode voltage drop. Point C then goes out as a blanking signal directly to your CRT via the brown wire on the ribbon cable.

If you want 3V blanking signal, you can generate using the below method.

# Example: 3V blanking signal

• R11 = 0.7V diode
• R9 = 1kΩ (let's keep this at 1kΩ for simplicity)
• R10 = 2.8KΩ (calculated - see below)

Calculate R10 using ohm law, voltage divider calculator

• R10 = (Vout x R1) / (Vs - Vout) = (3.7V x 1KΩ) / (5V - 3.7V) = 2.8KΩ

Other values for R9 and R10 can also be used to achieve this. Example: R9 = 350Ω, R10 = 1KΩ. You can then use a voltage divider calculatoropen in new window to find what resistor values would give you 3.7V

# Testing

Connect the SCART cable to console, ribbon cable to the IDC adapter, turn on console. Keep the CRT off. Measure voltage between the brown wire (blanking) and black wire from the ribbon cable to confirm if you are getting 3V

You can test to see what voltages you are getting from the mux board. Make sure the mux board is not attached to your CRT when taking the measurements.

For the above exampe:

• A should read ~5V
• B should read ~3.7V (after the voltage division)
• C should read ~3V (after the 0.7V diode voltage drop)

# IDC rainbow cable

The board was designed such that it took advantage of the IDC rainbow cable colors to be intuitive.

You can buy the necessary parts and ribbon cable separately and also crimp your own cable. All you need is a plyer that can apply an even force not to break the plastic tabs. Pay close attention to the orientation of the cable in relation to the notch. You want to make sure this is correct, otherwise you will be feeding 5V from console to the wrong pin.

Below table provides an overview of the color of the cable and how it translates to RGB mod.

# Top & bottom layer

# Top & bottom silk screen

The bottom layer should appear 'mirrored' as if you were looking down on it through the board from the top.